Fancy seafood brasseries are having a moment in NYC squib

It’s been swimming under the media radar — but a great seafood-brasserie wave is swamping NYC. Opened late last year, Oceans, a beautiful, David Rockwell-designed restaurant at 233 Park Ave. S. at 19th St., is one of the toughest reservations in town right now. It’s also the latest in the school of jumbo, something-for-everyone piscene...
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